Safe and Sound

I haven't written for a while and now things seem to be pretty heated both here and in the news. I want everyone to know that I am safe and sound.

An amazing young woman here, an Afghan German, is head of the economic development. She took me to visit a home for children whose parents are in jail. As opposed to the orphanage which I hear so much about, this was a very nice home. There were several grades of children going to school here. Some of the children were even born in prison. I was taken around and shown the classrooms. In one of the class rooms children were learning how to use computers and using different computer programs. In other rooms children were learning how to read and write.

Little girls tried to catch my eye and smiled and giggled at me. Both girls and boys sat together in the class rooms. All were dressed very nicely. I also visited their bedrooms. They were orderly and very tidy. As opposed to many of the Afghan buildings I have been in, the rooms were warm. The doors are covered with thick quilts to keep the heat in. The rooms had carpet on the floors and clean bedding.

A local branch of the local Afghan Women's Association held a meeting here that I also attended. It was very interesting to watch the women organize the day. There were even three mullahs who attended. They even had good ideas to share with the women, perhaps even better ideas than some of the women had. I went and spoke to one of the mullahs afterwards and told him I had studied Islamic jurisprudence, history, and philosophy at the university.

I guess it was a big deal for the province because the television crews were there as well. After the meeting, they caught me and asked me to please say something for the television—in Dari. So I stated my name, where I am from, and that Women's Day is an important day and this is a good step to take.

I also visited the police training center that the Germans have built and where the international forces are training the police. It is very impressive—even by American standards. When Germans build something they build it really well. The interpreters all came to talk with me. One of them asked me if he could marry my daughter. I was impressed with these guys. They were very polite and had fun talking with me.

Because of the Quran burning, we were asked to do a quick survey and find out what local nationals are thinking. Now this was a challenge because we had no transportation to go into the city and ask questions. So, we got a couple of interpreters and went around the base and talked to the people who work here. The results were interesting. More than half had not heard of the events. Some said that the person who did this should be punished. Others said it should not happen again and that the government should do something about it. Everyone who had heard something had heard about it on TV. The most interesting thing that I am finding here is that some of the most educated, in terms of secular academic achievement, are not necessarily the most liberal or open minded. Some of the most humble people are the most open and forgiving. Some of the manual laborers told me that they are uneducated and don't know anything and have seen the Taliban kill people—implying that there are greater sins to be worried about.

This past week we also presented our findings from the simple survey we did around here. It turned out positively and now we will be doing a very large project. I have been busy working on survey designs and instruments for this. We will be evaluating the police training for both the Dutch and the Germans.

Today, though, I just about had it. I couldn't stand another day of pickled carrots, cabbage, and no fresh fruits or vegetables. I think we have the worst food here in all of Afghanistan. I have also heard this from some of the people who travel to the different cafeterias in various cities. And pork! They serve everything except bacon! What I would give to have fresh eggs and bacon for breakfast. The Germans serve tons of pasta and bread—just the stuff to get fat from. I eat the smoked fish more often. but today the guy from atmospherics took me to the American base to get some good food. Boy! Did it put me in a good mood. I even had dessert—wonderful chocolate ice cream, a tiny piece of cheese cake, and a piece of blueberry bundt cake. YUM. Had Mexican dinner, salad, and cantaloupe too. I have to say it beat whatever kind of crap they serve here. I stopped off at the PX and bought some hair color, pistachios, protein bars, and a couple of junk magazines to enjoy.

Our team was going to have a movie tonight, but it ended up being cancelled because of the issues surrounding the Quran burning. So, I am catching up writing to you. I am also reading a remarkable book. It is heart wrenching and most of the stories are from people who live in the province where I am stationed. It is called Love and War in Afghanistan by Alex Klaits and Gulchin Gulmamadova-Klaits. I highly recommend it.

I feel so sorry for the people who live here. They have way too many children and there is just not the sustainability to help them all. Female mortality here is awful. I hear that the mortality rate here is worse than in sub-Saharan Africa.

I have had difficulty getting a female interpreter, but I haven't given up. I blew up and said that the men here are just like the Taliban—doing something to protect the females, but instead it hurts and hinders them. The guys on base don't want to see that some woman has had her head chopped off and delivered in a box to the base. However, it is for the woman to decide if she wants to take the risk or not. We should not be taking the opportunity away from the women. This is the same mentality as the Taliban—protecting the women, but instead they end up being abused and repressed.

I see all the males who are given opportunity to be interpreters. They are able to refine their skills, develop contacts, and earn additional money by doing errands for people on base. Women are not given the slightest of chances to do this. I asked the young women here in charge of economic development if I was wrong in my thinking. She said no, that she has had the same argument. I said that a certain percentage of jobs here should be reserved for local women. There are widows and single women here who need jobs too. They could do the laundry too. I know that some women are afraid to come here, but some are not and we have not done what is necessary to help bridge the economic opportunity for them. Before I came here I was told that I would get raped, couldn't walk alone at night, would have to pee in my tent, and have a battle buddy. I am sure that is the case in some places, but it couldn't be further from the truth here.

I have a sweet friend here, Ingo. I can't say enough nice things about Ingo. He is a German soldier, father of 3 beautiful boys and his wife's name is Sandra too. He comes from a small town in eastern Germany. Next summer, God willing, I will go visit him and his family. We go for little walks around the base.  He shows me little "bars" he has discovered. The bars are little coffee-tea bars where soldiers go and relax. So we usually take little walks and have tea or coffee together. He tells me wonderful stories about his children, wife, and grandmother and other family members. I love to hear the stories. We also talk a lot about gardening. He loves to garden and has grapes and all kinds of fruit trees, nut trees, and vegetables. One day Ingo was looking at me and asked me who cut my hair. I said I did. He said he thought so, because my bangs are crazy looking. Then the next day he told me if I bought the materials, he would fix the color in my hair for me. His wife sent him some home-canned meat a while back and he brought it in and shared it with us. It was really nice. Ingo goes back home in a month and I will miss him when he goes.

I will be going to the police training units and to the police stations. The only hesitation I have is from the news that an Afghan policeman killed two soldiers. None-the-less they have done a fantastic job here during the demonstrations. Although I haven't done the training, I am proud to see what effect it has had on the officers here.

All in all I am happy. My tummy is full with some wonderful food. I have a nice warm tent to sleep in. My children are safe and studying hard.

Love to all of you,

Sandra