Safe and Sound

I haven't written for a while and now things seem to be pretty heated both here and in the news. I want everyone to know that I am safe and sound.

An amazing young woman here, an Afghan German, is head of the economic development. She took me to visit a home for children whose parents are in jail. As opposed to the orphanage which I hear so much about, this was a very nice home. There were several grades of children going to school here. Some of the children were even born in prison. I was taken around and shown the classrooms. In one of the class rooms children were learning how to use computers and using different computer programs. In other rooms children were learning how to read and write.

Little girls tried to catch my eye and smiled and giggled at me. Both girls and boys sat together in the class rooms. All were dressed very nicely. I also visited their bedrooms. They were orderly and very tidy. As opposed to many of the Afghan buildings I have been in, the rooms were warm. The doors are covered with thick quilts to keep the heat in. The rooms had carpet on the floors and clean bedding.

A local branch of the local Afghan Women's Association held a meeting here that I also attended. It was very interesting to watch the women organize the day. There were even three mullahs who attended. They even had good ideas to share with the women, perhaps even better ideas than some of the women had. I went and spoke to one of the mullahs afterwards and told him I had studied Islamic jurisprudence, history, and philosophy at the university.

I guess it was a big deal for the province because the television crews were there as well. After the meeting, they caught me and asked me to please say something for the television—in Dari. So I stated my name, where I am from, and that Women's Day is an important day and this is a good step to take.

I also visited the police training center that the Germans have built and where the international forces are training the police. It is very impressive—even by American standards. When Germans build something they build it really well. The interpreters all came to talk with me. One of them asked me if he could marry my daughter. I was impressed with these guys. They were very polite and had fun talking with me.

Because of the Quran burning, we were asked to do a quick survey and find out what local nationals are thinking. Now this was a challenge because we had no transportation to go into the city and ask questions. So, we got a couple of interpreters and went around the base and talked to the people who work here. The results were interesting. More than half had not heard of the events. Some said that the person who did this should be punished. Others said it should not happen again and that the government should do something about it. Everyone who had heard something had heard about it on TV. The most interesting thing that I am finding here is that some of the most educated, in terms of secular academic achievement, are not necessarily the most liberal or open minded. Some of the most humble people are the most open and forgiving. Some of the manual laborers told me that they are uneducated and don't know anything and have seen the Taliban kill people—implying that there are greater sins to be worried about.

This past week we also presented our findings from the simple survey we did around here. It turned out positively and now we will be doing a very large project. I have been busy working on survey designs and instruments for this. We will be evaluating the police training for both the Dutch and the Germans.

Today, though, I just about had it. I couldn't stand another day of pickled carrots, cabbage, and no fresh fruits or vegetables. I think we have the worst food here in all of Afghanistan. I have also heard this from some of the people who travel to the different cafeterias in various cities. And pork! They serve everything except bacon! What I would give to have fresh eggs and bacon for breakfast. The Germans serve tons of pasta and bread—just the stuff to get fat from. I eat the smoked fish more often. but today the guy from atmospherics took me to the American base to get some good food. Boy! Did it put me in a good mood. I even had dessert—wonderful chocolate ice cream, a tiny piece of cheese cake, and a piece of blueberry bundt cake. YUM. Had Mexican dinner, salad, and cantaloupe too. I have to say it beat whatever kind of crap they serve here. I stopped off at the PX and bought some hair color, pistachios, protein bars, and a couple of junk magazines to enjoy.

Our team was going to have a movie tonight, but it ended up being cancelled because of the issues surrounding the Quran burning. So, I am catching up writing to you. I am also reading a remarkable book. It is heart wrenching and most of the stories are from people who live in the province where I am stationed. It is called Love and War in Afghanistan by Alex Klaits and Gulchin Gulmamadova-Klaits. I highly recommend it.

I feel so sorry for the people who live here. They have way too many children and there is just not the sustainability to help them all. Female mortality here is awful. I hear that the mortality rate here is worse than in sub-Saharan Africa.

I have had difficulty getting a female interpreter, but I haven't given up. I blew up and said that the men here are just like the Taliban—doing something to protect the females, but instead it hurts and hinders them. The guys on base don't want to see that some woman has had her head chopped off and delivered in a box to the base. However, it is for the woman to decide if she wants to take the risk or not. We should not be taking the opportunity away from the women. This is the same mentality as the Taliban—protecting the women, but instead they end up being abused and repressed.

I see all the males who are given opportunity to be interpreters. They are able to refine their skills, develop contacts, and earn additional money by doing errands for people on base. Women are not given the slightest of chances to do this. I asked the young women here in charge of economic development if I was wrong in my thinking. She said no, that she has had the same argument. I said that a certain percentage of jobs here should be reserved for local women. There are widows and single women here who need jobs too. They could do the laundry too. I know that some women are afraid to come here, but some are not and we have not done what is necessary to help bridge the economic opportunity for them. Before I came here I was told that I would get raped, couldn't walk alone at night, would have to pee in my tent, and have a battle buddy. I am sure that is the case in some places, but it couldn't be further from the truth here.

I have a sweet friend here, Ingo. I can't say enough nice things about Ingo. He is a German soldier, father of 3 beautiful boys and his wife's name is Sandra too. He comes from a small town in eastern Germany. Next summer, God willing, I will go visit him and his family. We go for little walks around the base.  He shows me little "bars" he has discovered. The bars are little coffee-tea bars where soldiers go and relax. So we usually take little walks and have tea or coffee together. He tells me wonderful stories about his children, wife, and grandmother and other family members. I love to hear the stories. We also talk a lot about gardening. He loves to garden and has grapes and all kinds of fruit trees, nut trees, and vegetables. One day Ingo was looking at me and asked me who cut my hair. I said I did. He said he thought so, because my bangs are crazy looking. Then the next day he told me if I bought the materials, he would fix the color in my hair for me. His wife sent him some home-canned meat a while back and he brought it in and shared it with us. It was really nice. Ingo goes back home in a month and I will miss him when he goes.

I will be going to the police training units and to the police stations. The only hesitation I have is from the news that an Afghan policeman killed two soldiers. None-the-less they have done a fantastic job here during the demonstrations. Although I haven't done the training, I am proud to see what effect it has had on the officers here.

All in all I am happy. My tummy is full with some wonderful food. I have a nice warm tent to sleep in. My children are safe and studying hard.

Love to all of you,

Sandra

Small Trips

Went out with the USDA liaison to visit the Department of Agriculture and Livestock  (DAL) here in the province.  Most of the area is rural with a few cities scattered about.  The cities are not developed but seem more like crowded rural areas.  Next to a university you see a plot of land that someone is plowing or hammering at the clay with an ax.  

When we arrived there were guards at the door.  But we were welcomed in and taken to an office.  The office looked like drug den from a hollywood movie.  The paint on the ceiling was peeling.  There was one lightbulb in the wall that provided light for the mud-built building.  The floors were cold and unfinished, but covered with a few carpets.  I took my shoes off before I went in and could feel the cold come up through the bottom of my feet.  The couches in the office were dirty and worn.  They looked like something that people in the states would have taken to the dumpster.  

We met with the director and two of his managers.  They loved it when I spoke Dari to them.  They said we have had to learn English all our lives to speak to someone else and now someone has come who has learned the language to speak to us.  We drank tea and I listed as the USDA liaison spoke with them about projects.  Currently, she was working with the director to record a training session that would be played back on the radio so farmers could learn about hoof and mouth disease, diagnosis, prevention, and treatment.  They are planning on doing a series of these programs.  

The director talked about the problems getting people to vaccinate their animals.  First, veterinary drug stores are not of the same quality as in the States.  There are problems with selling expired vaccinations, purchasing fake products, and keeping the vaccinations at the proper temperatures.  Transportation is a huge problem--getting them back and forth.  Then there is the problem of getting farmers out to get the vaccinations.  Some do not want to buy them because they haven't worked in the past and they consider it a waste of time.  Most  people here are extremely poor and this is a huge cost for them.  The USDA was concerned that if the vaccinations were purchased from the province then they would displace local businesses.  There were other issues at play, but this seemed to be a topic that caused some tension.

The director was very enthusiastic about helping women start small agribusinesses at home.  He mentioned honey bees and chickens.  These are small  industries that could help not only feed the family, but also bring in additional income to the family.  Within a short time a woman could pay a small debt back for the $30 dollars or $200 dollars it takes to get into poultry farming or bee keeping respectively.  

We sipped on hot tea which took the edge off the cold as we sat.  Most offices and homes are heated with the metal barrel stove that roughly looks like it is made out of a garbage can.  This can't be very sustainable and it certainly contributes to the smoggy haze over the country side.  

They took the time to take us back to the veterinary clinic and the demonstration farm.  The farm was pretty expansive, but the clinic, like the offices, would not pass even the bare minimum standards in the west.  

This is not to say that these men were not highly intelligent or competent.  They certainly are, but money is probably spent on salaries, guards, and the basic necessities of keeping an office going, rather than upkeep.  

I was given an open door invitation to return and he invited me to visit the pastoralists and learn from the women how they do things.  

I will be doing follow-up it turns out; with the US LNO here---Jay and "Silent Bob".  Jay is an energetic man who wants to help the Afghans.  He would like to address agricultural and health care issues that the villagers talk to him about.  I am lucky that I have the opportunity to help him.  I will be helping him draft proposals to the DAL director and provincial health director.  Not too many people here have my unique background and it is a huge asset to the military.  Not to brag, but proudly, I was complemented today by several people that it is amazing how the Afghans respond to me and how natural I am with them.  It has been noted that unlike the Germans, I am completely spontaneous and it is amazing how crowds of children and adults form around me and that people just open up to me unlike to anyone else.  I was told that I am a special person and if there were more like me, this place would be completely different.  I hope that the compliment doesn't jinx me in anyway.  

I also have been having fun with my new German Buddy Ingo.  Ingo is about 40 and iis from a small town or village near the Polish/Czech border.  He has a beautiful wife (also named Sandra) and three absolutely adorable little boys.  I have had fun drinking coffee, tea, eating chocolates, going for walks, and watching German movies with Ingo.  Yes, we even get a little work done once in a while too.  I promised him, or rather invite myself, to come visit him and his family next year.  It sounds like fun.  He is an avid gardner and we talk about that endlessly; great planner (after all he is German) and has done remarkable things to make a small carbon imprint and have a happy, comfortable, and cozy life living next to his grandmother in a wonderful little town.  He has a swimming pool, tons of fruit and nut trees, berries of all kinds, and even a green house.  Ingo loves to make the most of life and is adventuresome too.  He is not suppose to leave the PRT, but we took him off base over to the US side so we could shop in the bazaar that is on base and eat some good American grub.  

To be honest, I miss American food sometimes.  The 500 lousy ways of eating cabbage and port gets to one after a while and there is RARELY dessert.  Not that I need any, but once in a while it is a pretty great thing.  I also bought some Lowenbrau nonalholic beer there.  It is pretty good.  I can have a beer and not get fired for alcohol consumption.  I am also having fun with Robert, the social scientist from the Netherlands.  We share a special spiritual connection.  He loves Rumi and I am teaching him the alphabet so he can read the original text.  Apparently, he owns about 30 different translations of Rumi's Masnavi.  He is a psychoanalyst (Jungian) and did some kind of evaluation on me and Ingo.  I am not entirely sure what it all means, but apparently there is some kind of similarity we have in our personalities.  For sure we both like to laugh and garden.  Ingo and I are going on a field trip here on base in a couple of days.  I got lost and found out where the gardners stay.  They have a green house and were so happy when I bumped into their area.  I told Ingo about it so we are going to go visit.  I saw that they had some geraniums in there, so it will be nice just to savor the smell.  I laugh an awful lot.  These people are very intelligent and their wit runs about light speed.  It is hard to keep up sometimes.  

Our team leader came today.  He was stuck in Masar-e Sharif just like I was.  He only had to stay there for four days, but I stayed an entire week.  He is an earnest, honest, kind man.  I can tell.  He is former navy a few years older than me and he and his wife live in the DC area.  After we got him back to the tent, I went on a walk over to Dust Off.  The Americans run the Medivac helicopter from here.  So, there are a few on the base here, although the Provincial Reconstruction Commander is German and he oversees the operations of everyone here.  So far, I see that there are primarily Germans, Belgians, Dutch, Americans, and Armenians.  The Europeans are mostly happily married.  They have things figured out in a way that works well for their family life.  Ingo told me that they found out that if soldiers return home about every 4 months their marriages stay intact.  It is after 4 months that things start to fall apart.  I thought it was interesting.  

I have a lot of work to do this week.  I have a big presentation due on the 17th that Robert is putting together.  It is a summary of findings from my first research design with the team.  It is really quite ordinary and elementary.  I didn't want to take on something too big for my first task.  This research explores the population's idea of where the law comes from, if they know what is hugug is (civil law office) and/or if they would ever use one, and how accessible the police area.  A couple of our missions were cancelled so I spent one day walking around both bases interviewing people.  It was pretty cool.  I also finished a design for our new project, assessing how easily the population can identify the security forces in the area.  After several attempts, we have it figured out what we will do for the Dutch.  It will be completed in three parts.  The first we will do indepth interviews with people in prison, my colleague will do the men's prison and I will do the women's.  Secondly, we will interview people as they come out of the court house to get better understanding of their experiences through the justice system as it happens.  And, finally, we will survey the general population using a US Rule of Law Indicators Tool.  Then I am going to help Jay and I need to do some other work in the office too.

It is raining again.  I like the sound of rain on my tent.  We  had snow the other day.  It gets really snowy and very cold.  Some little shepherd boys died tending their flocks and many animals died.  The Germans came to the rescue and helped save many more animals.  Locals are very appreciative and don't know what will happen when everyone leaves.  They worry about it and so do I.  

I have more to write, but for now, I better get some shut eye.  It's 1:30 and I better not sleep in and make a bad impression on my new Team Leader (TL).