Friday, June 1, 2012

Lots of Friends and Loved Ones

It's almost 4AM.  Yesterday I slept all day. I went to bed the night before and slept more than 24 hours straight.  I guess I was tired.  I think it is a mixture of diarrhea, bendryl, and heat.  It is starting to get hot.  I can't go out for my afternoon walks.  I have to wait until evening or go in the morning.  Despite the fact that it is hot, Kunduz is the best place from what I hear because there is more foliage.  In many other places, great amounts of deforestation has taken place.  Where mountains of forests once stood, bare grassy mountains now take their place.

My team leader came back yesterday.  He said he could kiss the ground of Kunduz.  Compared to the other places this truly is paradise.  Every four months the soldiers from Germany rotate.  This rotation we have the best group.  The commeraderie is very good and we are included.  People like us and invite us go to on missions with them.  People didn't know what the Human Terrain Team was all about before we got here and know they know and they like our work. 

Anosha invited me to go to the Book Day celebration.  It was very nice, held at the Kunduz Hotel.  The usual suspects were there--the director of Women for Afghan Women, the Mayor, the Mullah I met at Women's Day, the advisor to the Reintegration Program (former Taliban and advisor to Karzai), the children from the shelter, and many others.  Local television recorded the event and I again was on TV.  This time for receiving a very undeserved award.  I asked why I deserved this after I sat down and was told because I came so far away to be there.  Yes, and I did do a lot to finally be here.  Then we went to the Women's Center and I witnessed Anosha and one of the local leaders cutting the ribbon for the new women's library.  It is the size of a good sized American basement, but loaded with books.  I noticed it has many legal books.  I brought along a book I had with me--The Miles Inbetween by Rory Stewart.  Both my daughter and former team leader through training gave me the book to read before I came here.  I think he saw some of the darker side of life in Afghanistan, but it was the only book I had since I had given out copies of Life and Death in Afghanistan to others to read.  I wrote in the book in Dari "To my Afghan friends from a friend from American."  Maybe someone will find it interesting.  There are many young students here who can read English since it is the international language for science and higher education.

Later, I went to a meeting with Anosha to meet the new Provincial Director of Economic Development.  The poor man is a member of Hisb-e Islam--the Islamic Party.  He had no problem shaking my hand or talking to me.  I have met Saudis and a few Iranians who wouldn't shake my hand because I am a woman.  But most of the men here courteously shake my hand.  You could see by the expression on his face that he is in completely over his head.  The donors to this province met with him to discuss better collaboration.  We all had lunch together and I got to see Anosha's new downtown office. 

I also got the chance to go out with the German Cimic Team.  They look at civilian needs.  The transport I was in hit an IED.  Luckily on one was hurt.  Later I was shown that the Taliban claimed they took the lives of "four cowardly soldiers".  Everyone thought I may have been shook up by the event, but it didn't phase me at all.  I think it is because no one was hurt and I was prepared somewhat.  I was told that everyone would experience and IED while we were here.  I figure this was mine and I am glad it is over.  Later in the day I played volley ball with the guys. 

My birthday also came.  The night before the Germans and my team sat in our office court yard and we had a great time.  Andreas (who replaced Ingo) climbed up on top of the table and danced for me.  I got up and danced with him and Sebastian.  It was halarious and good spirited.  We laughed a lot.  The next day I held a fiesta.  Luckily, most of the food I had sent to me from the states was here.  Anosha got my grocery list and two of my sweet Afghan interpreter friends helped me prepare the food.  We made it in the nick of time and we had a Mexican Fiesta.  It was different, but seemed to be edible.  The German team that I work with gave me a framed document with a Happy Birthday and everyone's signatures on it.  I am proud of this.  I received a beautiful hand carved rosewood jewelry box from my team members and Anosha.  It was a good time--in some ways because I held the fiesta at the interpreters' quarters.  It gave the Germans an opportunity to mix with the Afghans.  Two friends from the Friday bazaar also attended. 

I went out and interviewed people on the street in downtown Kunduz.  I got in some good interviews.  It is close to a higher education institute and we stood by the gate waiting for the classes to complete so that we could chat with some women and other students.  The guard was so sweet--he went over and picked two beautiful roses and gave one to me and one to my interpreter.  I don't think you would see this kind of gentleness so often in the U.S.

I usually stop and wave to the Afghan guards here on the base when I do my walking.  On one stop, the one of the guards came down and brought me a bottle of water.  That was so sweet, so I stopped and talked to him and his colleague.  They really enjoyed talking to me.  On the other side of my walk, some of the guards had previously asked me to stop and drink tea with them.  This time I did.  About 5 or 6 of them gathered around and we chatted.  The next day I brought them a cake to eat with their tea.  Honestly, I don't think that Germans or others really take the time to get to know the Afghans that are readily accessible to them.  There are a lot of workers that come on base here to work.  Some of them are doing reconstruction by my office.  I have gotten to know four of them in particular.  I always go by and see if they have the earplugs I gave them to protect their ears from the blast of the saws they use to cut through steel.  One of them told me he needed goggles for welding.  I agreed.  I told them I wanted to talk to their boss.  When I saw their boss I politely told him to buy the guys ear protection and better eye protection.  The boys ranged in ages from 17 to 23. 

I also spent time with two of the gardeners.  One of them is a funny guy.  He is 42, but looks like he is 62.  He likes to carry things for me and talk to me when no one is looking.  The other day he came to me in pain.  He told me he slammed his chest against the handle of his motorcycle.  Although the doctor told him his rib wasn't broken, he claimed to be in a lot of pain and asked me for some medication.  He showed me the bulge in his rib cage.  I told him how to take the ibuprofen and sent him home with a handful that Viktor gave me.  The other young man is studying English and has a young daughter.  He has a beautiful tranquility about him.  He asked me if I could get him some sunscreen which I obligingly did.  He was very grateful and tried to practice Pastu with me. 

At the FOB there is a man I called a stalker.  For a long time he looked at me really strangely and would shuffle around the lunch tables where I sat.  He is a lunchroom worker.  I asked him if I did anything to bother him and he didn't want to talk about it.  Anosha asked him to stay away from me.  A couple of weeks ago, he treated me much differently.  My friend Wakil asked me if I could help him.  He said his daughter was sick and he needed help.  I found the name of a free doctor and today I learned he had been there but they told him they could do nothing for his daughter.  He said he is a poor man and has spent all his money trying to get her better.  She cannot open or close her hand for some reason.  She has also suffered from TB in the past.  I am not sure if he is still providing her money or not, but he is really disappointed.  I have met a new acquaitance here on the base.  He is an American trauma surgeon.  He also specializes in reconstructive surgery and has a special interest in children.  He asked Anosha if he could come to Children's Day and go to the orphanage with us.  I am going to see if there is some way he could look at this child too.

So much for now--there are other things too, but it is 4:37 now and the night has passed here.  It gets light early here.  I guess this is what it is like when we don't fool with the time shifts.  I send my love to all of you.